BETWEEN TWO WORLDS

Salted salmon, grated beets with dill, Russian kale, and brown Basmati rice Although the main components of this dish suggest something vaguely Nordic, each item was seasoned with quintessentially Japanese ingredients: rice vinegar and sesame oil …

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FROM THE SOURCE

Cha ca la vong – Rice noodles with hake, herbs, peanuts and fried shallots Another recipe that is a copy of a copy of a copy. Even if far removed from the source, the abundance of herbs picked straight from my own and from neighbors’ yards made th…

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BEING BORING

Pad Thai I never order Pad Thai when I’m eating at a Thai restaurant. It’s like ordering a hamburger at a high end steak house — incredibly pointless and lacking in all the real action. Why order noodles that have likely been adulterated with sic…

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COCO LOCO

Spaghetti nero with dandelion greens, shrimp, squid, tomato jelly, and tom kha broth / Telephone brand agar agar / Tomato jelly fingers I guess I’m going coco loco this week. I returned recently from a trip to Germany and Switzerland, where I ate …

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